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Game On

  • Writer: Paul McClanahan
    Paul McClanahan
  • May 18, 2020
  • 4 min read

The consumption of wild game is growing exponentially throughout the United States. Game meat is healthier, leaner, and loaded with robust flavors due to the diets of these denizens of the great outdoors. Wild game can be either land-based (furred or grounded) or airborne (feathered). The species available to hunters and trappers are enormous. Large game-animals like moose, bear, wild boar, and elk and smaller critters including squirrel, raccoon, and possums afford many choices and hunting challenges. Even reptiles are becoming a delicacy including snakes and alligators. One can find more and more restaurants throughout the country featuring many of these wild species on their menus. For this blog, I will be focusing on 5 of the more common game dishes. So...let's get our game on.

Bison (American Buffalo) is the fastest-growing meat when it comes to consumption. So popular that most major grocery chains sell it ground. These massive creatures once flourished in enormous herds in the Great Plains states. However, they were hunted to near-extinction in the 19th century. Today most buffalo roam in reserves, national parks, and ranches where they are raised like beef. The meat is much leaner than ground beef, loaded with more flavor, and it's slightly sweet. Try a bison burger grilled in the usual fashion, topped with onions caramelized in Cabernet wine, and crumbled Gorgonzola cheese. For larger cuts, the meat makes a great dried jerky that is loaded with protein. Venison includes elk, moose, mule deer, reindeer, and red-tailed deer. The red-tailed deer, raised in New Zealand and the U.S., is the most common breed for consumption. These grass-feeding grazers are very lean with virtually no intramuscular fat. The meat is very mild in flavor with a tender texture. The loin and the leg are the most popular cuts. The loin can be prepared like any beef tenderloin. Grilled or sauteed until medium rare and served with either a blueberry sauce or a garlic cream sauce. For the leg. a good marinade is a must. Start with a full-bodied red wine, chopped garlic, and onion. For the spices use thyme, juniper berries, and peppercorns. Marinate, roast, carve, and enjoy.

Rabbit is my favorite land-dwelling game meat and is also very popular in Europe. Rabbit, or lapin, as it's called in France is so popular, indoor and outdoor butchers display it prominently throughout the city, selling out of it daily. Like the larger game, the rabbit is ranch-raised making it available year-round. The flesh of these herbivores is very mild, lean, and tender. Most people compare the flavor and texture of chicken. Rabbit is very versatile, it can be roasted, braised, stewed, pan-fried, and grilled. I enjoy it using any of these techniques, especially grilled and basted with a fresh pesto sauce. Saute the leg and loin and deglaze with white wine. Add grainy mustard, thyme, and heavy cream and serve. Viola! Pheasant is the most popular of game birds. Originally brought to Europe from Asia during the Middle Ages and eventually making its way to the United States where it thrives. In South Dakota, pheasant season has become so popular with hunters that celebrities get in the game and can be seen everywhere, even in the smallest towns. Pheasant has a relatively mild flavor and is great roasted. Try this classic orange roasted pheasant recipe; Squeeze the juice of 1 orange and reserve. Stuff the cavity with the rind, onion, carrot, and thyme. Roast at 500 degrees for 1 hour. Remove the bird and skim the fat. On the stovetop, deglaze with Madeira and orange juice. Add 1 cup of stock, reduce by ½ and plate.

Quail are related to pheasant and it too is growing in the culinary world. Most quail are farm-raised in California and throughout Europe. Quail are very small with the breast meat coming in at a whopping 1-2 ounces. They can be roasted or grilled but I prefer sauteing them split whole since the flesh is so delicate. Keep it simple and saute the halves in butter, garlic, and Italian herbs, basting them as they cook. For a step up, try this Asian, ginger sauce. Combine equal parts of mirin and saki, add 1 Tbl. each of ginger and garlic, add 1 Tsp. each soy and sesame oil. Marinate the bird for 1 hour. Skewer the flattened halves with 2 skewers each and grill carefully. Serve with fresh snow peas.

The term game (gamen) originated in the 13th century, an Old English term meaning sport, joy, or amusement. Hunting was one thing they absolutely loved for both sport and nourishment. In doing my research, I was surprised to see that practically every country on every continent had a long list of indigenous animals from the wild used in their dishes, most going back to the aforementioned earlier times. Originally, restaurants or game suppliers depended on the season to provide their customers with the product. The surge in popularity is largely due to the availability year-round thanks to an increase in ranching. Lots of variety, great flavor, and very healthy means one thing, It's game time.

 
 
 

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